Trip Log

General

C-N-Do

C-N-Do organized the trip, provided a guide and van support, and arranged for meals and accommodations.   I highly recommend them.   Our guide, David, was both patient and knowledgeable.   His assistant, Susan, also worked hard to keep things running smoothly.  The van deposited us at the trail each morning, retrieving us in the afternoon.   This apparently is characterized as "soft-adventure" by travel agents.  For some reason, the appeal of "hard-adventure" diminishes after the third cold rainy day slogging through mud with a 50 pound pack (yes, I've done that).  Sometimes a little pampering after a big hike is admissible.

The Group

I had never met any of the other participants, and had no foreknowledge of their personalities.  Not only did everyone get along well, but the group developed a fun dynamic of its own.  Moreover, I found that I really liked each person individually.   The hikers were mostly from Britain or its progeny; the countries represented were England, Scotland, New Zealand, Australia, Canada, the US, and Germany.    Our leader, David, was an excellent guide.   He contributed a great deal to making the trip a wonderful experience.  Apparently, he has climbed all the Munros (peaks over 3000 ft) in Scotland except for one.  This single peak he has set aside and refuses to climb, lest he be required to identify himself as a Munro-bagger.   When asked if he has hiked them all, he simply says no.  That's modesty. 

The group consisted of (in no particular order):  Michael, Meta, Judy, Lynne, Carol, Amanda, Marion, and me (Ken). 

Terrain

The highlands consist of a large number of hills and mountains (approx 280 peaks over 3000 ft) as the name implies.  However, the West Highland way is relatively flat, passing along valleys and skirting the peaks.  There are a few climbs, but they are short.  The path itself is well maintained in most places, with some small boggy stretches.  In parts, deviation from the path will place one in the marsh, which can be treacherous (or at least messy).  Given the dry weather, the trail was probably less muddy than usual.   Apparently, the Way is an amalgamate of several smaller trails and drover paths that were eventually consolidated.  In Scotland, one can walk almost anywhere (within reason), though there is legislation pending that might change this.   That outlook is different from the basic approach taken in the US, which can be summarized by the childhood ditty (sung to the tune of "This land is my land, this land is your land"):

This land is my land. It is not your land

I've got a shotgun, and you don't have one

If you don't get off, I'll blow your head off

This land is private pro-per-ty

One of the interesting aspects of highland scenery is the absence of trees.  Though the mountains are covered in moss and grass, the only forests are ones that have been planted for timber.   This is partly a result of exposure to wind.  Even the artificial forests must be slowly expanded along the sides of hills, so that existing trees shelter the saplings.   Most of the land is privately held (though some is in trust), much of it by foreigners, and is used by locals primarily for sheep grazing. 

Weather

Contrary to our expectations, the weather was mostly pleasant.  The first few days were sunny;  however, to preserve its reputation and allow us to properly experience Scotland, the weather changed mid-trip.  Though the sky became overcast, there were only a few short periods of drizzle (or vertical "mist" as Meta terms it).    We are not certain who was responsible for the good weather, as each of us disavowed any virtue that might be thus rewarded.   It would have been preferable for more of the hotels to understand the notion of active heating; however, the temperature during the day was perfect for walking.  

When hiking, it is easy to inadvertently chill oneself.  For example, when climbing a hill one typically sheds layers to avoid overheating.  At the top, where the temperature is lower and exposure to wind is high, there is a tendency to avoid replacing the layers until one actually feels cold.  Note the use of the third person dissociative; obviously, the author of this page would never be guilty of such folly and mentions this pitfall solely for the edification of less enlightened travelers.  Therefore, I suspect that the onset of a short, intense cold mere hours after the last day's hiking was entirely unrelated to these considerations.  Doubtless it resulted from something I ate.  Incidentally, it appears that the body is able to stave off such illness until convenient.  

Bugs

Aside from a few midges in some wet spots where we rested, bugs were not a problem.  According to David, they constitute a serious nuisance during the summer months. 

Hotels

The Onich hotel and Buchanan arms were nice, but I cannot recommend the other inns we stayed at.  Unlike American hotels, which consist of large numbers of identical units, the Scottish hotel comprehends a heterogeneous set of rooms under one roof.  One individual might find himself relegated to a small trapezoid with a tiny shower facing a brick wall, while another, nominally renting the same type of room, might find herself ensconced in a large suite with an oversized bathtub and lake front view.   This latter always seemed to be Amanda.  Or perhaps she simply articulated her delight, while others enjoyed their good fortune in tactful silence.  As a result, Amanda was the subject of a great deal of ribbing- the continuation of which abuse I am happy to bequeath to posterity through this page.  

The Scottish shower is a matter of some small scientific curiosity to me.   There appear to be no human beings who can comfortably cleanse themselves in a 2 foot square box with no hooks or trays.  I can posit three plausible explanations of this enigma:  (1) The design was developed in an earlier evolutionary era when mankind's predecessors were of diminutive stature, and budgetary constraints have prevented subsequent revision; (2)  The wet weather obviates the need for the artificial application of water to one's dermis; or (3) Washing is deemed such a delightful activity that the government had to mandate the introduction of certain inconveniences to prevent the populace from indulging in this pleasure to the exclusion of all else.   I am willing to conduct field research by visiting hotels all over Scotland if the government sees fit to endow such critical anthropological work.  

One more incident bears mention.  On the last morning (Sat), when we were preparing to leave for Stirling, the Onich hotel locked Michael's luggage in their management office (it had been placed there because he checked out early).  Unfortunately nobody had a key, so they had to chop the door open with a hammer and chisel - a real pity because it was a beautiful, solid structure.    The moral of the story:  Always get up late. 

Food

***An Important Note on Food ***

I may be insane, but I like Scottish food.   Except for the first day's lunch, all meals were provided by the hotels.  Breakfasts were buffet style and typically consisted of toast, jam, tea, eggs and (when lucky) Scottish smoked salmon.   Bagged lunches included one or two sandwiches and a variety of snacks and fruits to be consumed during the three meal stops.  This is not a mistake.  When reading Lord of the Rings, I was amused by the references to elevenses and afternoon tea.  It turns out that these are actual meals in Britain (though the bit about wizards and elves turned out to be fiction).   Inexplicably, each day's hike ended in or near a pub.  There are 4 nice things about Scottish Cider:  (1) it tastes great,  (2) it is twice as strong as American cider, having an alcoholic content closer to wine than beer, (3) the British pint is 20 oz, outclassing the pathetic American 16 oz , (4) it costs 2 or 3 pounds per pint.  In fact, a pint of Scottish cider represents a far more effective investment in inebriation than do the comparable American alternatives. 

The group ate dinner together at the hotel, except for Marion, David, and Susan, who prepared their own meals at the Hostel.  The dinners were superb.  I enjoyed a variety of new tastes: Liver mousse, Trout mousse, Pates, Venison, and Steak pie.  Vegetables were usually served on the side.  Desserts included a delicious Toffee cake and some Baileys flavored ice cream (which I'm told Hagan Daz also produces).  After dinner we repaired to the lounge for coffee and tea.  I had wished to try a Haggis before the end of the trip, but the opportunity only presented itself on the day before my flight back.  At my hotel in Glasgow, they served a Haggis-stuffed chicken.  I enjoyed it, though it was sufficiently disguised to render it edible for anyone.   Next time, I will try a proper stuffed Haggis.

Although I actively tried to control my consumption of food, it proved impossible.  When engaging in intense physical activity, a top athlete must increase his food intake accordingly.  This has nothing to do with me, but I ate a lot too.  When hiking, one may indulge. 

Gaelic

The following are some words that David and Meta defined for me:

Loch: Lake

Lochan: Small Lake

Glen: A valley with a river running through it.  The suffix is the name of the river. 

Ben: Mountain

Munro: Mountain over 3000 ft (named after a surveyor who catalogued all such mountains in Scotland).

Burn : River

In addition, I learned the following word from some conversations amongst locals:

England:  Pure EVIL  -   the source of all that is impure in the universe.  Incidentally, this differs somewhat from the definition in the OED.  One of those minor regional variations, no doubt. 

Braveheart vs Rob Roy

Scottish locals HATE Braveheart, but hold that the movie Rob Roy was reasonably accurate.  I love the movie Braveheart.  Though I typically attend Hollywood films for the valuable historical and technical education they provide, I concede that I occasionally derive some satisfaction from a small and tasteful dose of action and fantasy.  Can't wait for Rambo 14 to come out. 

Daily Log

Days -1/0 (Thur, Fri: New York to Sterling)

I took a direct flight from Newark to Glasgow, leaving at 10 PM and arriving at 9:30 AM (approx 6 hour flight time).  Following this, I took a bus to Queens street station, and a train to Stirling.  After a nap I took a walk through town, ending with a tour of the castle.  I eventually found a pub that served dinner near my bed and breakfast.  There was some sort of rotary club meeting and I overheard a bizarre conversation among some older gentlemen dressed in interesting outfits.  Of course, I can't be sure of this- did I mention that Scottish Cider is very strong?  

Day 1 (Sat: Milngavie to Drymen)

In the morning, I walked to Stirling station and met the C-N-Do van (which had already picked up Meta and Judy).  We then drove to Milngavie, the starting point of the trail, and met Michael, Marion, and Amanda.  Margaret, one of the company's owners, was our guide the first day.  The trailhead was in Milngavie, and the first couple of miles paralleled the town.  We proceeded across some beautiful pastures, replete with sheep and cows, and finished near Drymen.  Toward the end of the day we were treated to our first glimpses of Loch Lomond. 

Day 2 (Sun:  Drymen to Rowardennan)

The hiking was through relatively populated areas and ended with Rowardennan (along Loch Lomond).  On the way, we climbed Mt. Conic, which provided spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.   After the hike (and requisite pub stop), we returned to the hotel and freshened up.  At dinner I tried a Yorkshire pudding, which radically differs from a Popover for reasons that escape me at the moment.  The British apply the designation of pudding liberally.  Here is a dialogue I recently overheard at the local food stop:

Customer:  I'd like a pudding please.

Clerk:  Three peppermint patties.  Will there be anything else then?

Customer:  Yes.  I'll also have another pudding. 

Clerk:  Very good- 1/2 pint of corn and feta salad. 

Customer:  Oh - and let me get a pudding as well.

Clerk:  Right - 1/4 pound of ham...

Our dinner was unexpectedly held in the midst of a Ceilidh.  For the unwashed heathens who do not know what this is, and among whom I counted myself until recently but now condemn with the vehemence of the convert, this is a Scottish country dance.   Instructions can be found here.  Basically a number of elderly men in kilts entered the room, the band started, and some complex dances ensued.  There were only two "foreign" groups there, and the locals were patient and gracious with the newcomers (though they doubtless derived some amusement from our consternation).   I participated in a number of dances (which I afterward learned were called (1) Strip the Willow, (2) The Dashing White Sergeant, and (3) The Military Two-step).  Even Michael was "persuaded" to dance by the end of the evening.   A fun experience, though I am glad no video cameras were present (I think). 

Day 3 (Mon: Rowardennan to Invernarnen)

We hiked along the edge of Loch Lomond and past it to Invernarnen.  The path along Loch Lomond was sheltered on one side by cliffs (much like the Palisades hike).  Along the way, a few of us took a detour to view Rob Roy's cave (which is far less impressive than it sounds).   Past Loch Lomond, we proceeded into hilly grasslands.  After the hike we stopped at the famous Drovers Inn, which is exactly as I envisioned an old British tavern.  The inside was stone and wood with swords and other bric-a-brac on the walls.   There was also an obsession with taxidermy, apparently imparted by the late proprietor. 

Day 4 (Tue: Invernarnen to 2 miles past Tyndrum)

The terrain was closer to that which I remembered from previous visits to Scotland: beautiful barren mountains covered in grass and bog.  There were also some nice waterfalls along the way, and plenty of sheep and cows.  The hills seemed deceptively small.  It occurred to me that one could simply point in a direction and walk without fear of getting lost.  According to David, my estimates were only mildly unrealistic - he suggests approximately 1/2 hour per 1000 feet of elevation (or 1-2 hours per climb).  One day, I will return and simply follow my whims.  Meta explained quite a bit of local history too me, though I fear my poor memory won't retain it.   I supplemented my lunch with a Pork Pie, purchased at the supermarket in the morning.   It was tasty but unhealthy; however, they are supposed to be an excellent source of energy for hiking.  Around midday, I experienced a bog firsthand when I attempted to take a shortcut across a brook.  The mud caked off later and proved easy to remove.   Toward the end of the hike, someone spotted an eagle. 

Day 5 (Wed: 2 miles past Tyndrum to 1 mile before Kingshouse)

We passed the bridge of Orchy (where part of the film Rob Roy was shot), stopped for tea at the train station cafe, and continued past Inveroran.  For the remainder of the day, we skirted the huge Rannoch Moor.  This is an extensive marsh surrounded by mountains.  It is a beautiful stark landscape, and the atmosphere was enhanced by the stormy aspect of the sky.   The marsh itself is peppered with tiny ponds and bog islands covered with an incredible variety of mosses (much like coral reefs).  Toward the end of the day, we were treated to some light rain.   Apparently this area (the environ of Glen Coe) is always wet.  After the usual pub stop, we returned to the hotel.  

Day 6 (Thur: 1 mile before Kingshouse to Kinlochleven)

We proceeded past Kingshouse to the Devil's Staircase, passing the majestic Buiachaille Etive Mor on the way.  The Devil's Staircase is actually far more modest than the name implies, and provided some enjoyable views.  I can only imagine the names of the truly difficult climbs:  "Horrible suicidal eternal damnation ascent".  But look at the bones....  The top of the staircase was above the low cloud cover.   A few of us took a side trip to a nearby peak (Beinn Bheag?).  This proved to be a boggy off-trail trek, but we saw some beautiful plants along the way.  At the top, the view was fantastic.  It is easy to see how one could become lost in a mist if the clouds rolled over you.   It was eerie up there.  The descent to Kinlochleven was also beautiful.  We passed green meadows and a lush forest.   The hike finished early, so we returned to the hotel and took a free ferry across the Loch (which is connected to the ocean).  Marion and I searched for creatures under the rocks on the beach.  We only found a few crabs and some bugs.  There was also an odd seaweed that firmly attached itself to rocks.   Because our group was so quiet and refined, we were assigned to a "special" table for dinner at the hotel..  I had whipped liver, Venison stew, and Meringue with cream. 

Day 7 (Fri: Kinlochleven to Fort William)

We finished the final leg of the trail,  passing through a pretty pine forest (planted for timber) which sported some amazing mosses.  On the way, we skirted Ben Nevis, which deigned to briefly lift its cloud cover for a few photos.   It is amazing that hardy individuals who easily traverse 95 miles of trail can brazenly whine about the last two or three miles:)  Of course, I'm not referring to any particular individual - especially not someone from so esteemed a place as London.  After photos and Champagne at both the true and touristy endpoints of the West Highland Way, we drove to Fort William.  In the 20 minutes available, I sprinted to the few stores that were open and did some gift shopping.  Afterwards, the entire group ate together at the hotel for the first time.  At this dinner, we all exchanged contact information. 

Day 8/9 (Sat/Sun:  Onich to Stirling to Glasgow to New York)

After some trouble retrieving the luggage from the hotel storage room, we returned to Stirling.  Because we were pressed for time, the farewells were briefer than I would have liked.  At Stirling, Meta, Judy, and I visited the castle and saw an interesting Hawk demonstration.  Meta kindly gave me a ride to Glasgow and dropped me at my hotel.   On Sunday morning, I flew back to New York.